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It starts with butter, more than you think is necessary, that sits like an ice cap slowly melting in the pan. Next come the sliced onions, their sting dulled by fat and heat.

Roughly 2,000 pierogi are handmade daily at Pierozek, a Brooklyn restaurant whose name translates to “little pierogi.”

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Announced earlier this week in The New York Times, it’s rare to see such a homey dish grace its pages, but Pierozek’s opening marks a growing respect in the city for pierogi made by hand, rather than machine.